Quenelles with Nantua Sauce
Aux Lyonnais Quenelles of Fish with Nantua Sauce
One of my must-go-to Bistros in Paris is Aux Lyonnais which is located in the second arrondissement. The restaurant, of course, is dedicated to celebrating the cuisine of Lyon. I love to go to this restaurant, because you can get a three course meal for around 35 Euro, considering of course that the restaurant is owned by Alain Ducasse, one of the most highly decorated Michelin starred and influential chefs in the world. The one dish that I fell in love with on my first trip (which I continue to order on every visit) is the Quenelles of Fish in Nantua Sauce. In fact, if you look at one of my very first posts here, you will see the dish and how it was served.
The quenelles are poached fish dumplings usually made from pike (a speciality of the Lyon region). The dish is baked in the oven to finish but not before a rich and creamy bisque (usually made from crayfish) like sauce is poured generously over the mousse like dumplings.
I like to think of myself as pretty smart and resourceful. When you have the internet at your finger tips, its easy to search for recipe you want to try and recreate. So I searched high and low for the Aux Lyonnais Quenelle recipe but with no success!
The thing is, sometimes, it’s better to be lucky that smart!
I had given up hopes of ever making this recipe one day until I browsed through the Coco Cookbook and realized that the Quenelles were a featured recipe! The recipe is of David Rathgeber who headed the Aux Lyonnais kitchen. It was by pure luck that I opened the cookbook and the page I landed on showed a picture of the beautiful quenelles! I said to myself, they look familiar and sure enough, here was the recipe from Aux Lyonnais!
Finally, leave it to husbands to give you compliments in a weird sort of way. When he asked me what we were eating, I explained we were having quenelles of fish. He said:
“What is a quenelle?”
“Like a fish patty” I said, trying to think of the closest thing that he could relate to.
As he polished off the last dumpling, he said, “I don’t think you made the recipe correctly. These fish patties aren’t like the patties I’ve tried before. I feel like I am eating a cloud.”
Well, considering that he finished the whole lot – I considered it confirmation that I had made the recipe correctly!
Quenelles of fish in Nantua Sauce
Recipe – Adapted from Coco, recipe from David Rathgeber
Quenelles of Fish in Nantua Sauce (the recipe serves six but I simply halved the recipe)
For the quenelles
- 750 grams pike fillets, skinned (I used ling fish as I couldn’t find pike)
- 350 ml light cream
- 150 grams butter, softened
- 2 eggs and 1 egg yolk
- salt and pepper
- Bone the pike fillets, process in a food processor and then add the cream, eggs, egg yolks and butter. Beat until smooth and add salt and pepper.
- Cover the bowl with clingfilm and rest in the refrigerator for 12 hours.
- Bring a large pan of water to a boil, add some salt and then reduce the heat to 80C.
- Shape the fish mixture into quenelles between 2 large spoons and place them in the water to cook (over a low heat) for 10 to 15 minutes.
- Carefully remove the quenelles and drain.
- Store in a cool place.
For the crayfish (see note below)
- 15 crayfish
- olive oil for frying
- 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
- sprigs of parsley
- 200 ml cognac
- Remove the intestines from the crayfish, also removing the heads and tails to use separately.
- Heat the oil in the pan and sear the tails with the garlic and parsley.
- Remove from the heat and deglaze with the cognac and rest for 5 minutes.
- Remove the tails and peel them, leaving the last ring of shell attached. Set aside.
- Strain through a sieve the cooking liquid.
For the sauce
- Olive oil for frying
- 1 onion, cut into 3 mm cubes
- 1 celery stark, cut into 3 mm cubes
- 4 garlic cloves, crushed
- sprigs of parsley, chopped
- 25 grams butter
- 100 ml cognac
- 150 ml white wine
- 3 ripe tomatoes, quartered
- 1 stalk of fennel, chopped
- salt and white pepper
- Heat the oil and add the crayfish heads. Cook for 5 minutes until brown.
- Add the onions, celery, garlic and parsley and butter and sweat the vegetables for 5 minutes.
- Deglaze with the cognac and the white wine, then flambe the pan.
- Add the tomates and fennel and cook for 1 hour over gentle heat, adjusting the seasoning if necessary.
To finish the dish
- 500 ml light cream
- pepper
- Preheat the oven to 140C.
- Arrange the quenelles in an ovenproof dish and add half the crayfish cooking liquid, so that the quenelles are half covered. Bake for 20 minutes, until slightly rise.
- In a pan, gently heat the remaining cooking liquid, with the cream, adding the crayfish tails to in.
- Remove the quenelles from the oven and pour the cream sauce and crayfish tails to it.
Delicious with buttered rice
Note: I didn’t have crayfish but I had a frozen bag of prawn heads and tails which I used for the sauce. Whenever I am preparing prawns, I will keep the heads and tails (raw) in a bag in the freezer and in recipes such as this, comes very handy.
I’ve also typed out the recipe pretty much as it was in the book but note that I didn’t use crayfish (as mentioned above). However, I think if you don’t have access to crayfish, you can also use prawns or lobster.
Lastly, the recipe is long and involves many processes. Trust me, it is worth it. This is bistro cooking at its finest!
Coco Cookbook is published by Phaidon.
Trissalicious 
In looking over quenelles recipes, all the others have flour. I am looking at your recipe and wondering if you forgot the flour? Eggs, cream, butter and eggs – wondering where you get any consistancy to make into a dumpling?
Hi Joanna, there is no flour in the recipe – the eggs and cream and butter make an unbelievably light and delicious dumpling. Good luck!
Hi,
I am about to attempt this recipe but I’m a little confused about the “sauce” recipe. It appears you take the crawfish cooking liquid and add cream to it to finish, but what do you do with sauce you ‘ve created.
Thanks,
Robert
Hi Robert,
I’ve checked the book – it isn’t specific and it looks like it’s missing a step – if I remember correctly – add the cooking liquid to the sauce. Good luck – let me know how it turns out!
Trissa
Thank you for the response and good luck to “Likes to Cook” who had the same question
We ordered this at Aux Lyonnaise in March. I am anxious to make it but a little confused. What is the cooking liquid that is strained in step 5 after sauteeing the crayfish? What “cooking liquid” is added to the baked dish? The quennel poaching liquid? Where do you use the sauce that the recipe instructs you to prepare?
It looks like the cookbook is missing a step – oops! Add the cooking liquid to the sauce (quenelle poaching liquid) – good luck!
I have made quenelle but never without a bit of flour to make a pate a choux. Your recipe doesn’t have flour but has eggs. Do the eggs serve as a binder?
Yes the eggs act as a binder in this recipe. Hope you like it!
Hello
join my FB “club” of the quenelle 😉
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=o.8694840782#!/group.php?gid=8694840782
It is all for fun and we share secrets about quenelles….
Thanks a mill!
U x
New to me but looks very delicious with rice…mmmm. Love to see all the creamy sauce.
Wow, this sounds and looks absolutely delicious! I can’t wait to try this recipe!
[…] Course 3: Quenelles of Fish in Nantua Sauce […]
They are gorgeous. They look really light and fluffy. Excellent photos Trissa
what great fortune that you found the recipe! the fish looks gorgeous 🙂
I for sure try the recipe as fish is always my favourite! I think I might have to try with the cod!
As I was reading the recipe, I thinking I would have to sub the crayfish with prawn heads which I have in the freezer. I was stoked to you find you did that! Your dish looks delicious and I am definitely trying it.
These look delicious, and are something that is new to me. The only type of quenelles I’d seen before were of the sweet meringue variety.
a quenelle cloud! awww that’s so cute!
Your husband sounds like mine lol!!
Ok so I’ll have to sub some things living inland, but I’m going to be making this.
Laura
Aren’t men great – plain and simple, from the heart and ‘cloud’ is testament that you accomplished that which you set out too. Looks stunning….especially from a fish cake lover!
This looks like an amazing recipe! I can’t believe you made this at home! You’re so talented!
Quenelles…never made them…yours look delicious, love the sauce on it 🙂 Such an elegant dish! Great pictures Trissa!
Ha ha, a quenelle cloud. Your hubby is too cute! The dish looks absolutely delicious, off it goes into my must try list (that never ends) 🙂
OMG! These look so good! I’m def bookmarking this as it has me very intrigued!
the only cloud i’ve ever eaten is the humble marshmallow, but this sounds much better (and a good bit more nutritious, clearly). lovely presentation and recipe, trissa!
LOL! Your husband is so funny!! Oh Trissa, I have never eaten this dish before, but just looking at the recipe and your gorgeous photos, it’s obvious they are bursting with amazing flavour. Your colours are just incredible!
Of course you have the Coco cookbook! 🙂 I flicked through it but didn’t see this one but I’ll have another look now. I felt the same when I came across the recipe for Joel Robuchon’s pommes puree.
trissa,
Your hubby was right in describing this dish as light as a cloud, I was reading the directions on making the quenelles and if I close my eyes…I can imagine how delicate they are and tasty, another one to-do recipe (LOL!). Btw, just tried that momofuku fried chicken thing, my gulay! that was tasty last night (you got me intrigue from you adobo twist!).
How cool! Such a pretty dish. I might just try making this. Probably not going to be as pretty as yours. And I too, keep heads and tails of prawns in freezer.
Hahaha that’s so cute how your husband said it was like eating clouds! It makes me want to try it even more! I love the sound of that rich sauce, my Mum always keeps prawn heads in the freezer to make laksa but I might steal them to make this instead! And what luck for you to stumble upon the recipe like that!
Gorgeous photo and what a find! I love fish quenelles and the sauce looks deliciously rich.
Oh I know that same feeling of stumbling upon a recipe that you’ve been searching high and low for.. When I was in London, I had this bar called a Love Bar from Pret a Manger, ever since I’ve been back home I’ve been craving for it and managed to find that recipe randomly.
Your quenelle looks delicious and comforting..
Men.. Strange creatures they are.. 😛
That was a coincidence that must have been meant to be; you looking in that cookbook on exactly the right page! It looks gorgeous and I would definitely think that your husband gave you the ultimately compliment; it tastes like clouds…. that must mean it was light and airy and fluffy and beautiful and delicious! 🙂
Oh I just love your pictures!! The dish looks so beautiful too!
Goodness! What a beautiful dish. This looks fantastic. I’ve never heard of this dish. Thanks for introducing me to it.
Luck always find you when you least expected. Surprisingly (or rather not surprisingly) Aux Lyonnais is also one of my favourite bistro in Paris. Strangely enough I have never ordered this dish during my many visits there. I definitely will, next time.
A fabulous stroke of luck to find the recipe you dream about! It happens from time to time. It looks delicious and I love your husband’s name for it! How about calling it Cloud Quenelles with Nantua Sauce?
You know, the first time I went to Paris, I hadn’t done any research on the cuisine there and so missed out on checking the foodie joints completely.. I loove the place.. so I have another reason to go back there – this time for a culinary tour! :)))
Hehe.. i totally get the oblique compliments from the hub.. happens to me as well.. When he asks if he can clean the bottom of the bowl, I know I scored a success.. but do wish, he’d SAY it sometimes.. LOL..
Ooh, I’ve been coveting Coco, but decided not to get it for now (even if it was on sale at Costco, of all places). I’m so glad you lucked into your favorite recipe. I bet you won’t be able to stop making it from now on! 🙂
Hey, Trissa – I have just got off a late night teleconference and am happy to see your new post… this looks delicious and congratulations on locating the recipe… but it does look like alot of work… reminds me of Thomas Keller’s steamed egg custard – so much work…
I’m so happy you love the “Cuisine Lyonnaise”, and “quenelles” of course! I’ll give you other nice restaurants adresses in Paris…
What funny little creatures. They are kind of ugly in a way, with their little lumps, but they are simultaneously stunningly gorgeous. They look absolutely delicious, and your husband’s comment makes me want to eat them even more. I am definitely going to try this recipe, it just looks too tasty not to. What a windfall for you to come across the recipe, and what a windfall for us to have you share it 🙂
Oh my goodness, what an impressive dish! I bet this was awesome.
*kisses* HH
They look lovely Trissa. Dan is so funny. I feel like I’m eatig a cloud is a mans explanation of light and fluffy ehehhehe. When am I going to get to taste one of your dishes?
Wow, this recipe is a treasure, hunted by you so long plus luck. Should give it a try!
Thanks so much, Trissa.
You are certainly resourceful, it’s no wonder you found the recipe eventually! The quenelles look delicious and the sauce very boozy with all that cognac 🙂
Hey, why didn’t we get a sample!!!???