Casa Labra, Madrid
Every year, thousands of pilgrims head to the town of Santiago de Compostela where it is believed that the body of St. James is buried. Some people will undertake the pilgrimage as a way of penance, and a way to get closer to God. The pilgrimage can take as little as five days (I was told) or as long as several months. A pilgrim can also purchase what is known as the credencial or a pilgrim’s passport which is stamped with the official St. James stamp in each town where the pilgrim has stayed. At the end of the journey, pilgrims receive a certificate of completion, called the compostela, which means they have walked the last 100 kilometers to get to the destination.
They say, this is a spiritual journey of a lifetime that I one day hope to experience. But in the meantime, I find myself in Madrid instead, and am about to embark on another type of pilgrimage. This culinary pilgrimage starts at our hotel and I stop at various restaurants and tapas bars along the way to reach, around five hours later, my destination. The final stop is a street called Cava Baja. At first glance, it looks like an almost impossible feat to eat in this many places in one night, but like any pilgrimage, there are mini and longer breaks. My mini breaks are the tapas bars where we enjoy one or two little dishes and move on. The longer breaks find us in restaurants like Casa Botin or Casa Lucio for a proper meal. At the end of our journey, the certificate of completion I get is not a compostela, but instead, a few extra kilos on my frame!
First, I hit Casa Lhardy. This institution has been around since 1839 and is well known for their croquetas de pollo (chicken croquettes) which you can purchase by the piece from the deli. You can also purchase some of their other specialities including callos a la madrilena (tripe), canelones, and various canapes which they sell by the piece. Lhardy also has a restaurant which I am yet to try.
Croquetas from Lhardy
How can I not stop by Jamon heaven, Museo del Jamon which is right next to Lhardy. You wouldn’t believe how much jamon is hanging from the ceilings, ranging from affordable to super expensive. There are a number of these outlets across Madrid, but this time, I stop by the one in Carrera de San Jeronimo for a little bit of Pata Negra.
Museo del Jamon
Pata Negra from Museo del Jamon
Next, I’m off to Casa Labra (first picture above) for the Tajada de Bacalao (cod fritters) and croquetas. The place is always packed and if you are lucky enough to nab a table outside, take your time and enjoy the atmosphere. I had been dreaming of the bacalao ever since I tasted it three years ago. Am glad that things haven’t changed!
Bacalao fritters from Casa Labra
We stop by Plaza de Santa Ana, a little square near the Puerta del Sol. There are many bars, restaurants and cervecerias to choose from but our favourite is the tapas bar called Lateral. We are lucky enough to sit outside where we can people watch, listen to musicians serenade couples and watch flamenco dancers.
Angulas (elvers) with garlic sauce from Lateral
Then I hit Casa Botin for dinner. There is obviously a good reason this restaurant has been around since 1725 (the oldest restaurant in the world according to the Guinness Book of World Records). The reason? The roast suckling pig and roast suckling lamb. Both a must try!
Roast Suckling Lamb and Roast Suckling Pig from Casa Botin
Finally, to cap the night, I head on over to Cava Baja, for a few more tapas at Txacolina. Txacolina is standing room and cash only but still manages to draw crowds. It is so popular that a sister restaurant, Txacoli has opened at the end of the same street. My favourite tonight tapa is the chistorra wrapped in a potato crisp and topped with a fried quail’s egg.
Chistorra with potatoes and a quail's egg
Cava Baja is also home to Casa Lucio, that serves the best Huevos Estrellados in Madrid (you can order this with either chistorra, bacon or jamon). If you aren’t able to get a table here, try Taberna los Huevos de Lucio across the road for a smaller, cheaper (but equally delicious) menu.
A shaky hand and poor lighting always make for poor photographs so apologies for the not-so-pretty pictures. But believe me, every little bite was a step closer to heaven!
Casa Lhardy – Carrera de San Jeronimo, 8
Museo del Jamon – Carrera de San Jeronimo, 6
Casa Labra – Calle Tetuan, 12
Lateral – Plaza de Santa Ana, 12
Casa Botin – Calle de Cuchilleros, 17
Casa Lucio – Cava Baja, 35 (and Taberna los Huevos de Lucio – Cava Baja, 30)
Trissalicious 
your fotos are as gorgeous as the food. I really enjoyed this post! ive never been to spain but i wish to go there one day n like a million other places too. 🙂 tq for the trip.
Suckling lamb!! Oh my gawd!
It’s been ages since I’ve been to Spain. You make me want to book a flight asap and bring along an empty stomach. 😉
Oh the jamon! The pata negra looks fantastic as well. Not too sure about the elvers though. Look very wormlike to me.
Jealous. I’ve always wanted to go to Spain along with other European countries. But when I visit one day, I will refer to your blog posts and to you. 🙂
Wow what a pilgrimage… How can I ever do this … Maybe loose 10 lbs. before such a pilgrimage. In fact when I had lunch in El Botin I could nit even finish my order of cochinillo. And we just had one tapa for a start which was gambas. I must take my hat off Trissa n Dan … What a gastronomical feast. How nice to travel with people who love n know how to eat. But as I said… Loose weight first before you go on such pilgrimage.
So much beautiful food, you must be absolutely enjoying your holiday =) Love the look of everything, esp the skin on the roast suckling lamb and pig!
Hey you are in Madrid pala….The Palace is where I always stay when I’m there…love the hotel and location close to Santa Ana for the tapas bars….
Casa Lucio is great but my next place to try on my next trip is Casa Botin..
My girlfriend went on the religious pilgrimage you first mention. I have a deep desire to do that. She did 1000 kilos to the destination. I can relate to yours, much more, unfortunately. Madrid has been on our list for 4 years now, but things keep getting in the way. We actually had 2 teachers stay with us for a month from Madrid as they came to have a month speaking English and learning how we do things in Edmonton. They are wonderful. We thought we would be there that summer, but went to Boston NYC and San Fran that year… then to the Adriatic Sea the next summer, and this year we have done London and it will wither be Paris or Egypt… whatever connects easiest with our yearly summer trip to Vanja’s home in the Former Yugoslavia. Spain is definitely the top of our list… yet, the list is so big, other things get in the way…
Your little evening out is exactly how I imagined it would be…crowded, warm, active, alive… and full of the most delectable tidbits on every corner.
What a wonderful evening you had. I am a new reader of your site, so don’t know about you yet. Were you referred to these places… did you research them to find out about them, or did you just go to them because they were nearby and looked interesting?
I have subscribed to get new posts by mail = so I will be back!
Thanks,
Valerie
Damn, now I wish I was a food blogger when I was in Barcelona in 2004! 😦 I was so naive back then and didn’t know where to go to look for good food, oh well. a good excuse for me to go back.
Those elvers…. hmmm i hope they are crunchy?
The food looks amazing! My husband and I really want to do the pilgrimage in Spain and are hoping to do it next year. Perhaps I should make sure that I don’t go to the restaurants before we start the walk so that he doesn’t have to roll me along!
Elvers… as in little eel?!? How were they?
Awesome! Spain is definitely one of my destinations in the next couple of years.
I didn’t get a chance to stop by Madrid when I was in Spain and only stayed at Barcelona. Have you been to Barcelona? Your culinary pilgrimage in Madrid looks amazing, feels like I was there!
I love jamon! And all of the other foods you have featured looks amazing! I can’t wait to meet you while you are in New York!
Dear Trissa – I am in awe of your blog —- The food the intricacies of your journey….how beautiful!
The roast suckling lamb I digg as well as the croquettes. You have found in me someone who’ll be back again & again.
Ciao, Devaki @ weavethousandflavors
What special treats am I seeing?? Oh I’m so jealous! Madrid is a GGGGGREAT city. Enjoy it!! Have a terrific time and please report back to us all with your wonderful photographs!
Magda
What a trip! I”ve never been to Spain, but have wanted to. Now I want to go even more. I think I could pass on the elvers, though;-)
Thanks for the tour…where to next?
Diane
Glad to hear that you are having the best time of your life! Got to admire your determination to blog while you are on holiday. I am not complaining because I enjoy reading all of your posts!
Omg! Everything looks incredible. I’ve never heard of elvers before this, sounds interesting! The roast suckling looks mouth watering-ly good!
Trissa you’ve been getting in some fine, fine eating, everything looks just wonderful I’d imagine. And those few extra kilos are way better than a compostela, surely 🙂
That jamon, oh god..
Great reviews. If I ever great a chance to visit, I’ll make sure I look back over your posts.
I’m drooling over all your food pictures, but the one I’m drooling over the most is the roast suckling pig and lamb.
That all looks sooooo good Trissa!! Funny to think you are all of a sudden so much closer to me now… Well, maybe not really close but still closer then being in Australia! Sounds like you’re having a blast there!
Gorgeous…………..isn’t it amazing to see food and travel differently since having a blog? Love the photos and wish I could hop over! Have fun!
even if you feel that the pictures are less than perfect, i’m smitten and completely convinced that a trip to madrid is in order asap! i’m glad you continue to make the most of your journeys!
Soooo jealous!!!!! Everything in this pilgrimage deserves a big “hallelujah”! The croquettes y fritters all look divine, not to mention the “Holy Grail”-the jamon. Keep posting Trissa…everything looks amazing!
I love your pilgrimage!!! :))) I intend to do one of these soon… destination: unknown 🙂
Every single photo made me drool! What food! I loved Madrid…and Barcelona. We thought the food was perfect every place we went and you seem to be having the same experience.
Interesting info about the pilgrimage. Did not know about that.
Love this post, Trissa!
What a great culinary tour. Your pictures make it almost seem real. I would really love to try the roast suckling lamb and I’m fascinated by the pilgrimage you’ve described. I hope you are having a wonderful day. Blessings…Mary
OMG I love Bacalau. Those Fritters look AMAZING Trissa. Not to mention the Pata Negra. Delicious..
It all looks rather wonderful Trissa. Lovely shots of the Paris food markets. I had hoped to visit the Jamon Museum when I was in Spain last but didn’t get there. I do so love Spain. It is lovely to be seeing it through your eyes.
Those croquettas look exactly like the blog monter’s! Not to mention the cochinillo! Super! Wish i were with you sis 🙂
Can’t wait to hear the kuwentos!
Btw, fantastic pics as usual 🙂
Yes thank you for sharing everything~
Alomost like a trip w/ Anthony Bourdain..
An aquaintance..well more than an aquaintance.. did la Marche De La Compostelle..What a journey for her.It was just like her do this.♥
What a delicious pilgrimage! Great photos too – I’m greeen with envy.
Oh what a great thing to do. I love the idea of eating heaps of tapas. The roast suckling pig and lamb looks great and the Chistorra with potatoes and a quail’s egg looks absolutely moorish.
I have the new Book of Tapas which has the elvers in it. I don’t know if we can get that here but good to know that the food looks very similar!
Wow Trissa! I love spanish jamon, especially “Pata negra”. Hope you enjoy Spain… thank you sharing all this delicious pictures!
What a wonderful trip! I so want to go and eat some of that fab food. Your pictures area absolutely drool worthy!
*kisses* HH
Wow – it’s like a pub crawl for food – love it! I loove tapas and this looks the only way to do it.
I’m really enjoying this travel series, Trissa. You make me want to have suckling pig – right now.
And hopefully I’ll make it to Spain one day. Until then, I think I need to look at the picture of the suckling pig again.
The pilgrimage to Santiago also starts in Madrid – just follow the flechas Amarilla. If you are starting from the centre of Madrid at the Plaza Castellano you will find the first yellow arrow on a lamp post under the “leaning tower” on the left.
The route goes north-westwards from Madrid to Sahagún virtually in a straight line over the Sierra de Guadarrama, through Segovia and Coca, crosses the river Duero and finally the Tierra de Campos through Medina de Rioseco to Sahagún. It is 321 km long and takes about 2 weeks to walk (excluding rest days).
No excuses now – just take off for two weeks and walk el camino!
Beautiful photos! Love all the food …mmm. Thanks for sharing with us your trip.
Thanks for sharing this with us, Trissa!
Fabulous & inviting pictures, my friend!
Waw! Georgous food!
makes me miss travelling overseas so much. you’ve made me very hungry now! 🙂
Mmm, Casa Lardy! Oh wait, it’s Lhardy, hehe 🙂 My favorite thing has to be the, er, lechon!
When you mentioned about the Santiago pilgrimage , it reminded me of Paulo Coehlo’s books… This is so splendid! I have always dreamt of visiting Spain but have not had the chance to do so.Tapas bar-hopping – that is exactly what I want to do there…!
All that jamon is making me hungry! Not to mention the beautiful suckling lamb and pig. You lucky girl!
Thanks for sharing such beautiful sights 😀
Sounds like an educative trip for me.
Oooh, my mouth is watering. How lucky you are to have sample such wonderful fare!
oh Trissa, could I be any more envious of you, I love your trip, gives me alot of insight of what to expect. It’s so cool to just walk from one little tapas bar to another, and just trying each place’s signature dish. Oh the suckling pig and lamb looks delicious.
How great, Trissa! Thanks for taking us on your trip with you!
Oh look at all that wonderful food; especially the jamon! I haven’t been to Spain yet, we wanted to go last year when we were in Europe but it was kinda out of the way for us. There’s always next time.
I lived in Spain for 30 years and know well your stops. I can’t write more now because I’m too hungry and I’m crying so hard I can’t see the keyboard.
Wow Trissa, everything looks so delicious! It sounds like you are having the best time, and I’m impressed you’re managing to blog while you’re there, it makes me feel like I’m there with you!
nice photo’s trissa thanks for sharing!